All New Steps!

Day 8 of walking: Las Herrerias to Alto do Poio, 16.9 km

Today is the first day that we have walked all new steps for me. And the first 8 kilometers were straight up a mountain!

I remember taking the taxi on these mountain roads a year ago. I was so envious of the pilgrims in their ponchos, braving the wind and rain as they walked up hill. I would have done anything to have been walking beside them. And today I got my chance!

My body felt great; my heart even better. The view was gorgeous, and I couldn’t think of anywhere in the world I’d rather be.

If I had made this trek last year, I probably wouldn’t have had the same appreciation for it that I had today. I likely wouldn’t have enjoyed the rain, the challenge to my quads and glutes, or the wind in my face. There is beauty in having something taken from you, and then being given another chance.

Once we reached our summit we found the bust of Don Elias Valina Sampedro (1929-1989), the priest who came up with the idea to mark the Camino with yellow flechas (arrows) to guide pilgrims on their way. It’s thanks to him we don’t have to carry a map!

I was feeling so good that I encouraged us to press on to the next town before we stopped. But soon the rain started coming down harder. And the side of the mountain wasn’t there to block the wind. My gloves were soaked through, making my hands even colder by wearing them. We stopped at the next town but the woman at the store told us she wasn’t cooking. We would have to go two more kilometers. She made us a cup of coffee and filled us with chocolates and sent us back out into the wind.

When we arrived in the next town we came first to an Albergue. We stopped but no one was there. We wandered around. It looked really nice. There was a washer and dryer, which we were in need of. But without someone there to greet us, we felt we should move on. We found the local bar and were craving hamburgers and French fries.

A few days ago we met a couple from Germany who said “The Camino Provides” means the Camino will give you what you need, not necessarily what you want.

It proved to be true. The woman at the bar told us the only thing she had for us was soup. Homemade vegetable soup. Hot off the stove. It was exactly what we needed on this cold, wet day!

As we were leaving town, we came across an open barn full of hand-carved walking sticks. Several days ago Rand left his stick outside the place we were staying. We leave our stuff outside and unattended all the time. But this time, it wasn’t there when we left the next morning. We’ve passed a few stores where he could have bought a replacement, but the former one was special and he wanted this one to be too.

There was no one in the barn, but the door was open and a sign said they were made by “Pirri” and were available for 3 euros. We were bummed not to get to meet Pirri, but Rand found one that felt good. We didn’t have any change, but we figured a hand-carved walking stick was worth the 5 euros we left in Pirri’s cash box. The Camino Provides!